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Refraction of a Gaussian seaway
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| Zeitschriftentitel: | Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans |
|---|---|
| Personen und Körperschaften: | , , |
| In: | Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 113, 2008, C9 |
| Format: | E-Article |
| Sprache: | Englisch |
| veröffentlicht: |
American Geophysical Union (AGU)
|
| Schlagwörter: |
| author_facet |
Heller, E. J. Kaplan, L. Dahlen, A. Heller, E. J. Kaplan, L. Dahlen, A. |
|---|---|
| author |
Heller, E. J. Kaplan, L. Dahlen, A. |
| spellingShingle |
Heller, E. J. Kaplan, L. Dahlen, A. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans Refraction of a Gaussian seaway Paleontology Space and Planetary Science Earth and Planetary Sciences (miscellaneous) Atmospheric Science Earth-Surface Processes Geochemistry and Petrology Soil Science Water Science and Technology Ecology Aquatic Science Forestry Oceanography Geophysics |
| author_sort |
heller, e. j. |
| spelling |
Heller, E. J. Kaplan, L. Dahlen, A. 0148-0227 American Geophysical Union (AGU) Paleontology Space and Planetary Science Earth and Planetary Sciences (miscellaneous) Atmospheric Science Earth-Surface Processes Geochemistry and Petrology Soil Science Water Science and Technology Ecology Aquatic Science Forestry Oceanography Geophysics http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2008jc004748 <jats:p>Refraction of a Longuet‐Higgins Gaussian sea by random ocean currents creates persistent local variations (in the form of lumps or streaks) in average energy and wave action distributions. These variations explicitly survive averaging over wavelength and wave propagation direction. The lumps and streaks in average local action mean that the uniform sampling assumed in the venerable Longuet‐Higgins theory does not apply. Proper handling of the nonuniform sampling results in greatly increased probability of freak wave formation. The present theory represents a synthesis of Longuet‐Higgins Gaussian seas and the refraction model of White and Fornberg, which used a non‐Gaussian nonstatistical plane wave incident seaway. Using the linearized equations for deep ocean waves, we obtain quantitative predictions for the increased probability of freak wave formation when the refractive effects are taken into account. The wave height distribution depends primarily on the “freak index,” <jats:italic>γ</jats:italic>, which measures the strength of refraction relative to the angular spread of the incoming sea. Dramatic effects are obtained in the tail of this distribution even for the modest values of the freak index that are expected to occur commonly in nature. Extensive comparisons are made between the analytical description and numerical simulations.</jats:p> Refraction of a Gaussian seaway Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans |
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10.1029/2008jc004748 |
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Biologie Allgemeine Naturwissenschaft Physik Technik Geologie und Paläontologie Geographie Chemie und Pharmazie Land- und Forstwirtschaft, Gartenbau, Fischereiwirtschaft, Hauswirtschaft |
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Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans |
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| title |
Refraction of a Gaussian seaway |
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Refraction of a Gaussian seaway |
| title_full |
Refraction of a Gaussian seaway |
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Refraction of a Gaussian seaway |
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Refraction of a Gaussian seaway |
| title_short |
Refraction of a Gaussian seaway |
| title_sort |
refraction of a gaussian seaway |
| topic |
Paleontology Space and Planetary Science Earth and Planetary Sciences (miscellaneous) Atmospheric Science Earth-Surface Processes Geochemistry and Petrology Soil Science Water Science and Technology Ecology Aquatic Science Forestry Oceanography Geophysics |
| url |
http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2008jc004748 |
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2008 |
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| description |
<jats:p>Refraction of a Longuet‐Higgins Gaussian sea by random ocean currents creates persistent local variations (in the form of lumps or streaks) in average energy and wave action distributions. These variations explicitly survive averaging over wavelength and wave propagation direction. The lumps and streaks in average local action mean that the uniform sampling assumed in the venerable Longuet‐Higgins theory does not apply. Proper handling of the nonuniform sampling results in greatly increased probability of freak wave formation. The present theory represents a synthesis of Longuet‐Higgins Gaussian seas and the refraction model of White and Fornberg, which used a non‐Gaussian nonstatistical plane wave incident seaway. Using the linearized equations for deep ocean waves, we obtain quantitative predictions for the increased probability of freak wave formation when the refractive effects are taken into account. The wave height distribution depends primarily on the “freak index,” <jats:italic>γ</jats:italic>, which measures the strength of refraction relative to the angular spread of the incoming sea. Dramatic effects are obtained in the tail of this distribution even for the modest values of the freak index that are expected to occur commonly in nature. Extensive comparisons are made between the analytical description and numerical simulations.</jats:p> |
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| author | Heller, E. J., Kaplan, L., Dahlen, A. |
| author_facet | Heller, E. J., Kaplan, L., Dahlen, A., Heller, E. J., Kaplan, L., Dahlen, A. |
| author_sort | heller, e. j. |
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| description | <jats:p>Refraction of a Longuet‐Higgins Gaussian sea by random ocean currents creates persistent local variations (in the form of lumps or streaks) in average energy and wave action distributions. These variations explicitly survive averaging over wavelength and wave propagation direction. The lumps and streaks in average local action mean that the uniform sampling assumed in the venerable Longuet‐Higgins theory does not apply. Proper handling of the nonuniform sampling results in greatly increased probability of freak wave formation. The present theory represents a synthesis of Longuet‐Higgins Gaussian seas and the refraction model of White and Fornberg, which used a non‐Gaussian nonstatistical plane wave incident seaway. Using the linearized equations for deep ocean waves, we obtain quantitative predictions for the increased probability of freak wave formation when the refractive effects are taken into account. The wave height distribution depends primarily on the “freak index,” <jats:italic>γ</jats:italic>, which measures the strength of refraction relative to the angular spread of the incoming sea. Dramatic effects are obtained in the tail of this distribution even for the modest values of the freak index that are expected to occur commonly in nature. Extensive comparisons are made between the analytical description and numerical simulations.</jats:p> |
| doi_str_mv | 10.1029/2008jc004748 |
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| finc_class_facet | Biologie, Allgemeine Naturwissenschaft, Physik, Technik, Geologie und Paläontologie, Geographie, Chemie und Pharmazie, Land- und Forstwirtschaft, Gartenbau, Fischereiwirtschaft, Hauswirtschaft |
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| spelling | Heller, E. J. Kaplan, L. Dahlen, A. 0148-0227 American Geophysical Union (AGU) Paleontology Space and Planetary Science Earth and Planetary Sciences (miscellaneous) Atmospheric Science Earth-Surface Processes Geochemistry and Petrology Soil Science Water Science and Technology Ecology Aquatic Science Forestry Oceanography Geophysics http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2008jc004748 <jats:p>Refraction of a Longuet‐Higgins Gaussian sea by random ocean currents creates persistent local variations (in the form of lumps or streaks) in average energy and wave action distributions. These variations explicitly survive averaging over wavelength and wave propagation direction. The lumps and streaks in average local action mean that the uniform sampling assumed in the venerable Longuet‐Higgins theory does not apply. Proper handling of the nonuniform sampling results in greatly increased probability of freak wave formation. The present theory represents a synthesis of Longuet‐Higgins Gaussian seas and the refraction model of White and Fornberg, which used a non‐Gaussian nonstatistical plane wave incident seaway. Using the linearized equations for deep ocean waves, we obtain quantitative predictions for the increased probability of freak wave formation when the refractive effects are taken into account. The wave height distribution depends primarily on the “freak index,” <jats:italic>γ</jats:italic>, which measures the strength of refraction relative to the angular spread of the incoming sea. Dramatic effects are obtained in the tail of this distribution even for the modest values of the freak index that are expected to occur commonly in nature. Extensive comparisons are made between the analytical description and numerical simulations.</jats:p> Refraction of a Gaussian seaway Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans |
| spellingShingle | Heller, E. J., Kaplan, L., Dahlen, A., Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, Refraction of a Gaussian seaway, Paleontology, Space and Planetary Science, Earth and Planetary Sciences (miscellaneous), Atmospheric Science, Earth-Surface Processes, Geochemistry and Petrology, Soil Science, Water Science and Technology, Ecology, Aquatic Science, Forestry, Oceanography, Geophysics |
| title | Refraction of a Gaussian seaway |
| title_full | Refraction of a Gaussian seaway |
| title_fullStr | Refraction of a Gaussian seaway |
| title_full_unstemmed | Refraction of a Gaussian seaway |
| title_short | Refraction of a Gaussian seaway |
| title_sort | refraction of a gaussian seaway |
| title_unstemmed | Refraction of a Gaussian seaway |
| topic | Paleontology, Space and Planetary Science, Earth and Planetary Sciences (miscellaneous), Atmospheric Science, Earth-Surface Processes, Geochemistry and Petrology, Soil Science, Water Science and Technology, Ecology, Aquatic Science, Forestry, Oceanography, Geophysics |
| url | http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2008jc004748 |